Tel Aviv - Between the East and the West

Welcome to the city of contrasts. Some call it the LA of the Mediterranean for some it's a continuously inhabited ancient harbor taking on more or less western habits. Either way, the city of Tel Aviv is one of the most interesting cities in the Middle East and for most the main gateway to the State of Israel. Welcome to Tel Aviv - Yafo.

Not many people realize that but the city of Tel Aviv is actually more of a two cities in one. Its core consists of the ancient Palestinian harbor of Jaffa (Yafo in Hebrew) and the newer metropolis of Tel Aviv basically built all around it. The thing is, while I don't want to get into politics (and the ones of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict even less), a little bit of history can't hurt here. When the independent State of Israel was created in 1948, it kinda needed an official capital. While Israeli themselves consider Jerusalem as their actual capital, its political status made it kinda impossible for foreign powers to actually acknoledge it as such. Therefore, most of the international organisations an foreign coutries started consider Tel Aviv as the capital of Israel and went even so far that they held their embassies here. It led to a sudden and quick development of the city and in the last 50 years it became a pulsing modern metropolis that can match many of its western counterparts while still keeping some of its ancient charm, especially in the center of the historical town of Jaffa.

So what is it that makes Tel Aviv so popular?

St. Peter's church
Probably the most notable landmark of the Old Jaffa. This franciscan church with its tall bell tower gets featured on almost all Tel Aviv postcards. And for a good reason. Being built on a high rock cliff above the Meditarean sea, it is visible from everywhere and serves as a background for many photographers.

Hassan Bek Mosque
Probably the most famous (and infamous?) mosque in the whole Tel Aviv. It has been a place for many demonstrations and protests in the past years, but it still amazes all who are passing by with its beautiful Ottoman style architecture. Its minaret tower is unusually thin and tall due to it being twice rebuilt in the last century and everytime built somehow taller than before.

The Clock Tower (and the rest of Old Jaffa)
One of the seven clock towers built by the Ottoman empire in former Palestine, it serves as one of the many examples of the ottoman architecture in the city. Its specific look and recognisability as well as its location on one of the main squares, the HaShaon square, make the tower a popular meeting point for tourists as well as locals.
It also marks the main entrance to the ancient city of Jaffa, so while you are here, start exploring :)

Midron Yaffo Park
If you go through the Old Jaffa further to the south, you will reach probably my favorite park in Tel Aviv. It is a little further from all the tourist spots, so you will not find many tourists here, but the views are breathtaking. If you want to just sit in the grass, watch the sea and listen to the sounds of waves, this is your place to be. And I cannot stress this enough, come here in the evening, what you will see is absolutely beautiful. Which brings me to the next activity that you must take while in Tel Aviv.

Sunset
Being on the western shore of the Mediterranean sea, Tel Aviv offers one of the best possible spots for sunset setting. While you are at the seaside, I don't think there is anything more beautiful and romantic than watching the sun set. I personally can watch it everyday and it never gets old.

Beaches
Let's be honest here. While there are many historical landmarks in the city, the thing Tel Aviv is most well known for, are its beaches. There are literally kilometres of sandy beaches throughout the whole waterfront part of Tel Aviv. You can just pick the one you like and start enjoying your swiming, sun bathing or surfing - I have probably never experienced bigger waves than in Tel Aviv. Definitely worth it if it's your thing.

Getting in
Your best bet to get to Tel Aviv and to Israel in general, is by plane. The Ben Gurion International Airport, the country's main entrance point, is located roughly 15 km from the city (20 min train ride). Unless you are an Israeli citizen, be prepared for long and long and long arrival and departure procedure. The passport control while entering the country is one of the longest and toughest I have ever experienced. Be prepared for various kind of questions (how long you'll be staying, where are you staying, how much money you have to spend, etc.) When leaving the country, this is even more thorough. It is recomended to arrive at the airport actually three hours ahead of your scheduled departure. You will need to go through a personal interview with a Israeli security agent, passport control and regular airport security check - however if you are deemed as a potential threat by the security agent, more actions can follow - like manual check of your luggages, another thorough interview, etc. Be prepared and plan ahead. And don't try to fool these people, they really know their stuff.
Once you are through all that, getting to the city or back takes 20 mintues by train. It costs 13.50 shekel.

If you want to go somewhere by bus, I cannot stress this enough - plan ahead. Write your destination's name in Hebrew and maybe learn some basics. The Bus terminal is the largest in the world and the knowledge of English as well as the English signs are very scarce. You can end up like me and spend good hour and a half in the effing terminal trying to find the way :D

In conclusion
Tel Aviv is a modern metropolis, you will find here most of the things that you are used to in our western cities, but there are still some perks that give the city its own soul. Bargaining with the street vendors is still a thing in the old parts of the city, several times during the day a muesin calls upon a prayer in the local mosques, bells on the christian churches ring every morning inviting to the holly mass and from Friday afternoon till Saturday evening, druing Shabat, everything seems to be closed (including public transportation).
In Israel, cars drive on the right side of the road, the official currency is New Israeli Shekel (1 EUR equals something more than 4 NIS) and use the type H and C power outlets.

Israel is a very interesting country. And even though many people consider it dangerous, I have never felt more safe. You should try it yourself :)

Lex